Eating:
We’re just back with a restaurant report “hot off the grill” (Paula’s pun, not Julie’s).
Port Grimaud: Our favorite remains Armando’s (aka Michel’s, Michel being the name of the owner). A casual restaurant, it offers seating in the front abutting the Place Spoerry and its games of boules (petanques) or in the back overlooking the canal and boats. The latter is quieter and Paula’s personal choice. Michel’s menu is typical of the area: salads, melon and ham, mussels, carpaccio, terrific pizza, grilled local fish, lamb, steak –quintessential Var. 3 place Spoerry 04 94 43 45 18.
Tried two other restaurants on the main Place de Marche. Tartane had an interesting menu, a little different, with oysters, tagine and curry. Good food, but inattentive service. 8 rue l’Octogone 04 94 56 38 32.
Le Mareyeur has a reputation for good fish. Its location on the water is lovely and the service good. However, I found the menu expensive. Its plateau de fruits de mer (all kinds of shellfish) is the only in the area. It was tasty but unexciting. Mareyeur 10 place des Artisans 04 94 56 06 77.
Grimaud: (approx 15-minute drive) Located in a field is Auberge La Cousteline, about which I have mixed feelings (a common reaction in this part of the world). Pretty setting, well-spaced tables, good service, OK, uninteresting food. RD 14, quartier des couzes 04 94 43 29 47.
Le Murier has a pretty outdoor eating area and lovely dining room. The food is very contemporary, with interesting combinations and good service. A little more upscale than other restaurants in the area and different from the usual Provencal fare. RD 14, quartier la boal 04 94 43 34 94.
La Bretonniere is in the hill town of Grimaud. Park in the town lot and walk up to the restaurant. Inexpensive prix fixe and large a la carte menu of nice Provencal food. Request an outdoor table. 1 place des Penitents 04 94 43 25 26.
La Mole: Auberge de la Mole is a bistro like no other in this part of the world. Sit on a covered terrace and enjoy the prix fixe menu (55 Euros in summer 2007) First, you are presented with a plate of four terrines and pates. Then, choose a starter—frogs’ legs, smoked salmon, omelet, crayfish, etc. The main courses are various steaks, sauced and unsauced, duck, etc. A cheese course follows, then desserts. (hot apple tart, best chocolate mousse ever, prunes in red wine, crème caramel). This is obviously not a restaurant for people who don’t eat meat. We only ever go once a summer because of the sheer quantity of food. But what fun! Place de l’Eglise 04 94 49 57 01.
Cogolin: Grain de Sel, our second favorite restaurant, is here in this unassuming town known primarily for its manufacture of pipes (the kind you smoke) and carpet. The former chef from Byblos (St Tropez) has opened a very small restaurant, with only four tables on the sidewalk. You can choose from an inexpensive prix fixe menu and a small, reasonable a la carte menu. The food and its sauces are much more creative than the rather standardized food of the area. The chef’s wife, who waits on the tables, is lovely. It’s a terrific experience. Cogolin 6 rue du 11 Novembre 04 94 54 46 86.
Ferme du Magnan, located between La Mole and Cogolin, is up a hilly drive with lovely views. There is a nice terrasse, with a pleasant a la carte menu and fairly-priced prix fixe. Their Provencal food is nicely prepared and the view is great. Service is decent. Route de la Mole RD 98 04 94 49 57 54.
Ramatuelle: When you eat at La Ferme Ladouceur you sit between an inn and a garden, under the stars. You do not, however, get any choice in what you eat. The food is home-cooked and usually very nice. Dinner includes a starter, main course, some type of cheese and a dessert, as well as white, red or rose wine. In summer 2007, this cost 39 Euros per person. Very popular; always full. Fermeladouceur Quartier la Rouiliere 04 94 79 24 95.
Saint Tropez: Le Pesquiere, Le Mazagran and Lou Revelen, all with the same owners and menu, are up in the old town. They are outdoors, inexpensive and casual, featuring hot or cold mussels, fish soup and other Provencal favorites. You must reserve, but you’ll still wait for your table. 3 place du Revelen, 1,4 et 6 rue des Remparts 04 94 97 05 92.
Le Bistrot, on the Place des Lices, offers sophistication in both its outdoor and indoor areas. Has a more contemporary menu than many of the local restaurants and a good scene, especially after 10 p.m.. Service is good, too. Bistro Saint Tropez 3 place des Lices 04 94 97 11 33.
We have drinks every summer at the bar at Maison Blanche. It features great champagne-based drinks in a hip ambience. Hotel Lamaison Blanche Place des Lices 04 94 97 52 66.
Shopping:
Saint Tropez: First, the market, Tuesday and Saturday. It’s by far the largest in the area. Get there early (by 9), as it gets very crowded and very hot. Then, the stores. Besides the usual suspects (e.g., Tod’s, Hogan, Vuitton, Dior, Eres, Longchamps, Diesel, Hermes, Chanel, etc., etc.) are:
Jewelry: Gas Bijoux. Great bracelets, earrings, necklaces and rings; very South of France. A few items of clothing. Place de la Garonne 04 91 04 65 35. Trinity. Large price range. 29 rue General Allard 04 94 54 82 30.
Bathing suits: Kiwi. Cute, relatively inexpensive, sells tops and bottoms separately. Some mens stuff and some cover ups and cute beach bags. Kiwi 34 rue General Allard 04 94 97 42 26. 10 rue des Commercants 04 94 97 41 67.
Sandals: Rondini. Classic thongs and sandals. Some custom-made, some ready-to-wear (same price for each). People who work there are very nice. Rondini 16 rue Clemenceau 04 94 97 19 55.
Clothing: Boutique Lily. Prada, Gucci, Miu Miu, Marni. Good sale in July/August. Places des Lices 04 94 54 86 30. Joanna, next door, carries Dries Van Noten, Ann Demuelemeester, Versace, etc. Joanna Deluxe 6 bl Vasserot 04 94 54 81 29.
You can find the opposite kind of clothes, very loose and boho at Sunday. Linen, light knits, charming and well cut. Sunday Saint Tropez 13 rue Gambetta 04 94 97 31 69. (They also have a boutique, with a different selection of clothes, at Voile Rouge beach.)
Boutique Flashback carries cute one-of-a-kind skirts, tops, etc. Also boho, also St Tropez-y. 5 rue St Anne 04 94 97 46 50 (if the store is closed, call the mobil #06 13 77 39 92; the owner lives next door). She also has a booth at the market.
Markets in:
Port Grimaud Thursdays and Sundays.
Ramatuelle Thursdays and Sundays. Also in Ramatuelle is a store selling jewelry made with myriad types of stones (we think called Aladdin’s Cave, but we’re not quite sure) and a terrific pottery store, located on the main square.
Cogolin Wednesdays and Saturdays. More of a nontourist market.
Grimaud Thursdays. The town also has a cute jewelry store and some nice art galleries.
Cavaliere Wednesdays.
Bormes-les-Mimosas Wednesdays.
Les Arcs Thursdays.
Le Muy Sundays.
La Croix Valmer Sundays.
Avoid driving through a town on the morning of its market, traffic is heinous. Most markets are over by 1ish.
