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Chania – Crete

To Stay:
Casa Delfino. 9 Theofanous Str 28210 96500. Lovely suites in a perfect location for exploring the old town. There is a travel agent with no personal agenda in the lobby for a couple of hours each morning and evening to help you plan your excursions. The people at the front desk were also very helpful.

To Eat:
We found that the best course was to ask our waiter what to order. The only thing of which you have to be careful is that fresh fish, charged by the weight, is very expensive. Everything else was incredibly reasonable. Also, no one eats before 9 p.m., and the restaurants are at their most crowded around 10:30.

Tamam Zambeliou 49 28210 96080. Delicious local cuisine. The inside of the restaurant was a Turkish bath.

Antigoni on the old harbor 28210 45236. Where we had fresh grouper. Very fresh, very tasty, and very expensive.

Portes, owned by an Irish wife and Greek husband. Their food was the most creative we had in Crete. Be forewarned: cash only.

Karnagio 8 Katechaki Square 28210 53366. Good food and the best stuffed eggplant we had in Greece.

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Santorini

To eat:

In Fica, Selene is upmarket in a good location. 228/602-2249.

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Athens

Worth visiting if only for the jaw-dropping Acropolis. While there,

Eat at:

Filippou (taverna). Xenokratous 19 210/721-6390.

Hytra (modern cuisine). Navarchou Apostoli 7 210/331-6767.

Milos (branch of NY restaurant). 46 Vassilissis Sofias Ave 210/724-4416.

Varoulko (great seafood and great view). 80 Piraeus St. 210/522-8400.

Orizontes (mediterranean food with French and Asian influences). Lycabettus Hill, entrance via funicular from Aristippou 1 210/722-7065.

Shop at:

Melissinos Art(THE place for hand-made sandals). Aghias Theklas 2 210/321-9247.

Kombologadiko (hand-made jewelry). 9 Amerikis St 210/700-0500.

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Olympia

Two good tavernas: Ambrosia 262/402-3755, and Ta Kotopoula 262/402-2130.

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Mykonos

Paradise, but quite a scene. Stay at The Hotel Belvedere, which has a Matsuhisa (Nobu) restaurant, 228/902-5122, or at the Hotel St John in the south part of the island. 228/902-8752.