0

Quick Paris update

Dining

For our significant anniversary, we wanted to combine a good food experience, our dearest friends and the fact of a Sunday night event (most restaurants are closed on Sundays). We decided upon La Table de Joel Robuchon, where we enjoyed a lovely, beautifully served light meal (they have both small and regular portions). Highly recommended. 16, ave Bugeaud (16th) 01.56.28.16.16.

Le Comptoir was as enjoyable as ever, delicious and personable, with the restaurant seating only about 25. The meal included leeks, foie gras, baby pigeon, cheese and dessert. If you have dietary issues (is only the one meal served), you can let them know ahead of time and they will try and attend to it. (the restaurant is in the Hotel Relais Saint-Germain, where we always stay. Great people and location, large rooms and contemporary bathrooms. 9, Carrefour de l’Odeon (6th) 01.43.29.12.05.

The Mini Palais au Grand Palais proved to be unimpressive, although it was nice to sit outside among the columns of the Grand Palais. Perron Alexandre III/ Ave Winston Churchill (8th) 01.42.56.42.42.

The new Gordon Ramsay restaurant at the Trianon in Versailles served well-presented and prepared food; the amuses-bouches were more interesting than anything we ordered from the menu. OK and quite pricey. 1 boulevard de la Reine, Versailles 01.30.84.55.55.

Shopping

Repetto. Ballet flats, ballet flats and ballet flats.
Lilith. Funky chic clothing.

Vanessa Bruno and Isabel Marant. Two young designers.
Berenice. Cottons and cashmere blends, nicely and interestingly designed, and reasonably priced.

Petit Bateau. The usual.

Fabrice. Good costume jewelry. 33,54 rue Bonaparte (6th).
Sobral. Lucite and plastic jewelry, sophisticated and pas cher. 79, rue St Louis en L’Ile.

0

Rome, Done Moderately

Rome

Another attempt to have a moderately-priced vacation in light of the sinking dollar. Of all the major Italian cities, I have always found Rome to be the most affordable, the least pretentious and the most interesting.

We have written up The Daphne Inn in the past. Still a great place to stay, at a great price. Depending on the season, the rates range from 140 Euros up, and include breakfast. They will also give you a 10% discount if you pay cash.

Once again, our room was spacious and well-lighted, and our modern bathroom had a makeup mirror. Since The Daphne is a B & B, there is no lobby or bar.

Shopping

Stay away from the Via Condotti and the major Italian labels. The smaller boutiques near the Campo di Fiori and the Pantheon are still worth seeking out, especially during sales season. One of my favorite shops is Nuyorica. Piazza Pollarola 36/37 06 688 912 43.

Eating

We’re very fond of Gusto’s Osteria, and had lunch there our first day in Rome. It is well-located for shopping and has an interesting menu. Salads, pasta and a bottle of wine about 33 Euros per person. Via della Frezza, 16 06 321 114 82.

Dinner that night was at Trattoria Monti (approx 15 minute walk from Daphne). We shared an onion tart, pasta with gorgonzola and beef bracciole. With a bottle of wine the bill was about 35 Euros pp. Via San Vito, 13A 06 446 6573.

Next day, lunch at Casa Bleve. Gorgeous wine bar with a lovely selection of food on display. With wine and coffee, 40 Euros pp. Is convenient to the Pantheon and therefore some interesting boutiques. Via Teatro Valle, 48/49 06 686 5370.

Dinner found us returning to Uno e Bino. A cab ride away, and ensconced in kind of a wine shop, this restaurant features contemporary food. 40 Euros pp. Via degli Equi, 58 06 446 0702.

Excellent and reasonable lunch of pizza, salad and wine at Il Corallo. Via del Corallo, 11 066 830 7703. Al Bric for dinner. A lovely osteria enoteca with a huge wine list and known for its cheese—we shared a terrific starter of gorgonzola cheese fondue with crispy pieces of potato, then a pasta amatriciana (Roman in origin) and a pork dish. About 40 Euros pp. Via del Pellegrino 51/52 06 687 9533.

0

The Low-down on London, for when the dollar is weak

Paula has gone to London to suss out the medium-priced restaurants and shops we can go to on our declining currency. (warning: all prices are quoted in pounds)

{First, the driver she uses to pick her up at Heathrow: David Elliott. He’s terrific and very good at avoiding traffic. Davidelliott.pcs@virgin.net}

Sunday

Dinner in Belsize Park, a lovely part of North London, at XO. XO is an offshoot of E & O on Notting Hill (see below), with an Asian fusion menu of mostly small plates. Dinner was 27.50 pp, including wine. 29 Belsize Lane 020 7433 0888.

Monday

A day in the West End. You can save a lot of money on tubes and buses if you buy an Oyster Card. It can be added to (“topped off”) forever.

Shopping

Shopped at Joseph. Stores are franchised and each buys differently. Medium-priced casual spring clothes start at about 50.00. (multiple locations). I went into Emma Hope, a shoe store, but wasn’t terribly impressed with the merchandise.

You’ve got to take a walk through Dover Market. An unusual layout, featuring expensive designers but quite a hoot. Has a terrific café for lunch. 17-18 Dover St 020 7518 0680. You also must go to the Chocolate Society and try their chocolate covered cookies, their brownies and hot chocolate. 36 Elizabeth St 020 8743 2646. Next door is Erickson Beamon, with great costume jewelry—both theirs and that of other designers. From about 80.00. 38 Elizabeth St 020 7259 0202. Baker and Spice, up the street, has a nice reputation for take-out (as well as a small seating area for lunch). 54-56 Elizabeth St 020 7730 3033.

We ate lunch at Daylesford Organic. Communal tables, yummy food and mostly organic wines. Also does takeout cheeses, wines, breads, cookies, salads, etc. About 20.00 pp for lunch. 44B Pimlico 020 7881 8060.

Dinner was at Wild Honey. It has one Michelin star, as does Arbutus, owned by the same people. The restaurant occupied a nice space and wasn’t too noisy despite the tables being rather close together. Very good modern European food—an appetizer with ricotta, sprouting broccoli and potato. My companion had bouillabaisse while I had pork belly (how trendy!) with a barley risotto containing chorizo and tomato. The wine list was very reasonable, both by the bottle and carafe. Dinner cost about 35.00 pp. 12 St George St Mayfair 020 7758 9160.

Tuesday

Off to Topshop at Oxford Circus. Still very inexpensive, even with our dollar. The quality always seems good and we both found some cute tops, skirts and pants. I then found a new store nearby on Regent Street called COS. Turns out it’s an offshoot of H & M, for the more sophisticated shopper. The clothing was plain and nicely styled, and the accessories seemed well-made. I bought a cashmere cardigan for 59.00. 222 Regent St 020 7478 0400.

Lunch that day at Yauatcha. Great dim sum, glasses of wine and tea: about 22 pp. 15 Broadwick St 020 7494 8888. We were disappointed in our tapas dinner at Salt Yard, which had received a very good review in TimeOut. The menu was small and uninteresting, as was the food when it came out. The cheeses were mediocre, as was the crispy squid, the zucchini flowers, etc. 54 Goodge St 020 7637 0657.

Wednesday

I spent the day wandering around the West End looking at more boutiques. Nicole Farhi was pricey, but good quality and great fabrics. Fortnum & Mason has been totally remodeled: much sleeker and much less crowded. The negative is that they have stopped producing my favorite sauce for baked potatoes—spicy tomato salsa. Their restaurant is supposedly super for lunch or tea. 181-186 Picadilly St James’s 020 7734 8040. Seek out Rigby & Peller, wonderful, well-known fitters of bras and bathing suits, especially for large-busted women.

Want books? Waterstones always have 3 for 2 and discounts on hardbacks.

Thursday

Lunched at Tas, Turkish restaurant with nice mezes and open-faced pitas with a choice of lots of toppings. Kinda like a Turkish pizza. About 15.00 pp with a glass of wine.

Friday

We drove to Notting Hill, paying the 8.00 congestion charge. But, we found parking (take heed, New Yorkers). Ate lunch at E & O (see above) 14 Blenheim Crescent 020 7229 5454.

Shopped at Jigsaw. This store is making an appearance in California but not on the East Coast. A new designer has been hired to lighten up the dark and dreary clothing—the design and color palette is now superb. (Stripes are huge in London this season). Look nearby at Odabash, carrying designer Melissa Odabash’s divine bikinis, cover ups and beachy clothes. 48b Ledbury 020 7229 4299. Go to Dinny Hall for nice gold and silver jewelry in all price ranges. 200 Westbourne Grove 020 7792 3913.

We ate dinner at Urban Turban, in Notting Hill. Featured a riff on Indian street food (esp Mumbai)—lots of small plates, mostly medium-spiced and interesting. We loved it! Well priced—with wine about 35.00 pp. 98 Westbourne Grove 020 7243 4200.

Saturday

Alas, my last day in London (and the 7th in a row sans rain!).
Sushi lunch at Sushi-Say, a tiny, plain, well-known spot, vg and about 20.00 pp. 33B Walm Lane. 020 8459 2971.
Check out Primark, featuring copies right off the runway. (more stripes)
Whistles is about to undergo a major overhaul by a woman who left Topshop’s helm last year. We’ll see.

My dernier cri dinner was at Eyre Brothers. We’d always wanted to go there, but were never willing to commit to the half-hour drive to Hoxton. Twas an interesting, conemporary restaurant. Youngish crowd, due to the proximity of a lot of the clubs. Appetizers were salad-y (mine with torn salt cod). We had skate in a caper and onion sauce with roasted new potatoes and spinach, and sliced pork in an herb and salt crust over a potato and onion sauté. We shared rhubarb ice cream with rhubarb and ginger sauce, and a very nice bottle of wine. The meal was 100.00. 70 Leonard St 020 7613 5346.

0

Tuscany

Staying:

Porte Ercole: Il Pellicano is a beautiful Relais & Chateaux property. 0564/858 111.

Eating:

Castiglione della Pescaia, in Grosseto between Florence and Rome: L’Andana. A coastal hotel with a fabulous Alain Ducasse restaurant, Trattoria Toscana. 0564/944 800.

Montemerano: Dine at the delightful and delicious 2-star Da Caino, known for its elegant and simple cuisine. Via della Chiesa, 4 0564/602 817

Pietrafitta, between Panzano and Castellina: Pietrafitta. Localita Pietrafitta, 41 0577/741 123.

San Trovaso: Ombre Rosse is a wine bar that serves nice food. Via Franchetti, 78 0422/490 037.

Shopping:

To locate outlets, check out outlet-firenze.com.

Arezzo: Sugar sells chic men’s and women’s clothing, as well as household goodies. Corso Italia, 21/21 & 43/45 0575/354 631.

Siena: Dolci Trame has the clothes, via del Moro, 4 0577/ 46168, and Eclet has the striking bold jewelry. Via Cavour, 19 0575/351 854.

0

Puglia Region

Puglia

To Sleep:

Fasano: Borgo San Marco. 080/439 5757. Also, Masseria San Domenico. www.imasseria.com 080/482 7769.

Lecce: (or rather, ½ hour from) Il Convento di Santa Maria di Constantinopoli. athenamalpas@yahoo.com 7736/362 328.
Ostuni: Il Frantoio.A working farm with an outstanding restaurant. 0831/33 0276.
Savelletri: Masseria Torre Coccaro. C da Coccaro, 8 080/482 9310.

To Eat:

Bari: Ristorante Alberosole. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 13 080/523 5446.

Carovigno di Ostrini: Gia Sotto L’Arco. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 71 0831/99 6286.

Ceglie Messapica: Al Fornello da Ricci. Michelin starred. Contrada Monte Vicoli, 71 0831/377 104.

Gravina: Osteria di Salvatore Cucco. Country cooking and local cheeses. Piazza Pellicciari, 4 080/326 1872.

Lecce: Alle Due Corti. Corte dei Giugni, 1 0832/242 223. Also, Trattoria Cucina Casareccia. Via Colonello Costadura, 1 08132/245 178. Furthermore, Picton. Elegant with local specialities. Via Idomeneo, 14 0832/33 2383. And for your coffee and pastries, try Caffe Alvino. Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 30 0832/247 436.

Marittima di Diso: Aria Corte Sapori Antichi. Via Roma, 32 0836/920 272.

Martina Franca: Ristorante ai Portici. Piazza Maria Immacolata, 6 080/480 1702.

Molfetta: Ristorante Bufi. Vio Vittorio Emanuele, 15 080/397 1597.

Monopoli: Osteria Perricci. Via Orazio Comes, 1 080/937 2208.

Ostuni: Il Frantoio. See above, in lodging.

And, for the all-important gelato place, go to Polignano a Mare and try Il Super Mago del Gelo. Piazza Garibaldi, 22 080/424 0025.