PJ Travel Savvy

Staying:

The Bairro Alto Hotel is the first contemporary boutique hotel in Lisbon, opened by a group that runs terrific hotels in Paris, for one. It also has a good, low-key restaurant, Flores. Praca Luis de Camoes 2 021/340 82 88.

Eating:

Lots of interesting choices. Example: Sua Excelencia, featuring the food of Angola and Mozambique. Rua do Conde 34 021/390 36 14. Or, fab pizza while sitting in the sunshine at Casanova. Cais de Pedra a Bico do Sapato, Loja 7 Armazem B 021/887 75 32. Deli Delux is very nearby, and will serve you a cappucino while you buy your terrific aged pork. Av Infante Don Henrique Armazem B 021/886 20 70. Bica do Sapato itself is very in (and owned in part by John Malkovich). Av Infante Don Henrique, Armazem B 021/881 03 20.

Less in, and more culinarily-oriented (contemporarily), is Pap’ Acorda. Rua da Atalaia 021/346 48 11.

Then, have we got patisseries. Confeitaria Nacional. Praca de Figueira 18B-18C 021/342 44 70. Versailles. Ave Republica 15 021/354 63 40. Antiga Confecteria de Belem. Rua de Belem 84-92 021/363 74 23.

coastal suburb of Lisbon, half-hour or so away by train.

Staying:

The Farol Design Hotel consists of 34 rooms, cut into the rocks overlooking the sea. Each room has been individually decorated by a Portuguese fashion designer. Its popular restaurant serves Mediterranean fusion cuisine. www.farol.com.pt 021/482 34 90.

For more traditional luxury, try the Grande Real Villa Italia Hotel and Spa. www.maisturismo.pt/grvillaitalia 021/096 60 01. Or, the Relais & Chateaux Fortaleza do Guincho with its terrific restaurant. www.guinchotel.pt 021/487 04 91.

Shopping:

Auguri offers hip designer t-shirts and other cool wear. Rua Frederico Arouca 7.