PJ Travel Savvy

Another attempt to have a moderately-priced vacation in light of the sinking dollar. Of all the major Italian cities, I have always found Rome to be the most affordable, the least pretentious and the most interesting.

We have written up The Daphne Inn in the past. Still a great place to stay, at a great price. Depending on the season, the rates range from 140 Euros up, and include breakfast. They will also give you a 10% discount if you pay cash.

Once again, our room was spacious and well-lighted, and our modern bathroom had a makeup mirror. Since The Daphne is a B & B, there is no lobby or bar.

Shopping

Stay away from the Via Condotti and the major Italian labels. The smaller boutiques near the Campo di Fiori and the Pantheon are still worth seeking out, especially during sales season. One of my favorite shops is Nuyorica. Piazza Pollarola 36/37 06 688 912 43.

Eating

We’re very fond of Gusto’s Osteria, and had lunch there our first day in Rome. It is well-located for shopping and has an interesting menu. Salads, pasta and a bottle of wine about 33 Euros per person. Via della Frezza, 16 06 321 114 82.

Dinner that night was at Trattoria Monti (approx 15 minute walk from Daphne). We shared an onion tart, pasta with gorgonzola and beef bracciole. With a bottle of wine the bill was about 35 Euros pp. Via San Vito, 13A 06 446 6573.

Next day, lunch at Casa Bleve. Gorgeous wine bar with a lovely selection of food on display. With wine and coffee, 40 Euros pp. Is convenient to the Pantheon and therefore some interesting boutiques. Via Teatro Valle, 48/49 06 686 5370.

Dinner found us returning to Uno e Bino. A cab ride away, and ensconced in kind of a wine shop, this restaurant features contemporary food. 40 Euros pp. Via degli Equi, 58 06 446 0702.

Excellent and reasonable lunch of pizza, salad and wine at Il Corallo. Via del Corallo, 11 066 830 7703. Al Bric for dinner. A lovely osteria enoteca with a huge wine list and known for its cheese—we shared a terrific starter of gorgonzola cheese fondue with crispy pieces of potato, then a pasta amatriciana (Roman in origin) and a pork dish. About 40 Euros pp. Via del Pellegrino 51/52 06 687 9533.

Staying:

Porte Ercole: Il Pellicano is a beautiful Relais & Chateaux property. 0564/858 111.

Eating:

Castiglione della Pescaia, in Grosseto between Florence and Rome: L’Andana. A coastal hotel with a fabulous Alain Ducasse restaurant, Trattoria Toscana. 0564/944 800.

Montemerano: Dine at the delightful and delicious 2-star Da Caino, known for its elegant and simple cuisine. Via della Chiesa, 4 0564/602 817

Pietrafitta, between Panzano and Castellina: Pietrafitta. Localita Pietrafitta, 41 0577/741 123.

San Trovaso: Ombre Rosse is a wine bar that serves nice food. Via Franchetti, 78 0422/490 037.

Shopping:

To locate outlets, check out outlet-firenze.com.

Arezzo: Sugar sells chic men’s and women’s clothing, as well as household goodies. Corso Italia, 21/21 & 43/45 0575/354 631.

Siena: Dolci Trame has the clothes, via del Moro, 4 0577/ 46168, and Eclet has the striking bold jewelry. Via Cavour, 19 0575/351 854.

Puglia

To Sleep:

Fasano: Borgo San Marco. 080/439 5757. Also, Masseria San Domenico. www.imasseria.com 080/482 7769.

Lecce: (or rather, ½ hour from) Il Convento di Santa Maria di Constantinopoli. athenamalpas@yahoo.com 7736/362 328.
Ostuni: Il Frantoio.A working farm with an outstanding restaurant. 0831/33 0276.
Savelletri: Masseria Torre Coccaro. C da Coccaro, 8 080/482 9310.

To Eat:

Bari: Ristorante Alberosole. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 13 080/523 5446.

Carovigno di Ostrini: Gia Sotto L’Arco. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 71 0831/99 6286.

Ceglie Messapica: Al Fornello da Ricci. Michelin starred. Contrada Monte Vicoli, 71 0831/377 104.

Gravina: Osteria di Salvatore Cucco. Country cooking and local cheeses. Piazza Pellicciari, 4 080/326 1872.

Lecce: Alle Due Corti. Corte dei Giugni, 1 0832/242 223. Also, Trattoria Cucina Casareccia. Via Colonello Costadura, 1 08132/245 178. Furthermore, Picton. Elegant with local specialities. Via Idomeneo, 14 0832/33 2383. And for your coffee and pastries, try Caffe Alvino. Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 30 0832/247 436.

Marittima di Diso: Aria Corte Sapori Antichi. Via Roma, 32 0836/920 272.

Martina Franca: Ristorante ai Portici. Piazza Maria Immacolata, 6 080/480 1702.

Molfetta: Ristorante Bufi. Vio Vittorio Emanuele, 15 080/397 1597.

Monopoli: Osteria Perricci. Via Orazio Comes, 1 080/937 2208.

Ostuni: Il Frantoio. See above, in lodging.

And, for the all-important gelato place, go to Polignano a Mare and try Il Super Mago del Gelo. Piazza Garibaldi, 22 080/424 0025.

Staying:

Three different price points and “feels”:

Hotel de Russie. Luxurious. Fabulous service and concierge. Via de Babuino 9 06/328 881.

Grand Hotel de la Minerve. Not as pricey, yet very nice. Ask for Room 456. Piazza della Minerva 69 06/695 201.

Daphne Inn. Not really luxurious, no bar. But a terrific place to stay. Is great for a family, as there are entire areas that can be shut off to make a sort of living area. The staff is incredibly helpful and knowledgeable. They even give you a phone to use for your time there, in order to call in to the hotel for restaurant recommendations, directions, or any other advice you made need while you are out sightseeing. Good location. Via di San Basilio 55 06/8745 0086.

Two other new hotels to consider: The Aleph. Very cool. If you don’t stay there, certainly stop in for a drink to check it out. Via di San Basilio 15 06/422 901. Hotel Fortyseven. Via Petroselli 47 06/678 7816.

Eating:

So many good places and so few days, alas.

Bakeries:

Giovanni Riposati. Thin crust white pizza. Via delle Muratte 8 06/679 2866. Il Forno Campo di Fiori. Crunchy salty white pizza. Campo di Fiori 22 06/6880 6662. Antico Forno Roscioli. White pizza. Via dei Chiavari 34 06/687 5287.

Cheese:

Avenati. Via Milano 44 06/488 2681.

Chocolate:

Confetteria Mariondo e Gariglio. Via di Pie’ de Marmo 21-22 06/699 0856.

Gelato:

Il Gelato di San Crispino. Yum. Multiple locations. Go.

Bars:

href=”http://www.fluideventi.com/”>Fluid is a scene, but don’t go there for a meal. Via del Governo Vecchio 46/47 06/683 2361.

Two bars in bookshops: Il Tiaso Enolibreria Via Perugia 20 06/70 1570, and Lo Yeti Libreria. Via Perugia 4 06/702 5633.

Wine Bars:

Casa Bleve. Lavish cold antipasto assortiment; point at what you’d like. Via del Teatro Valle 48-49 06/686 5970.

Moma. Via San Basilico 42/43 06/4782 1058.

Restaurants:

Arcangelo. Good food and wine list. Via Guiseppe Gioacchino Belli 59 06/321 0992.

Augustarello. Inexpensive, simple tratt. Outside patio. Via Giovanni Branca 98 06/574 6585.

Crudo. Eclectic. Via degli Specchi 6 06/683 8989.

Dal Bolognese. Super. Piazza del Popolo 1 06/361 1426.

Doppio Zero. Meals from morning until 2 a.m.. Via Ostiense 68 06/5730 1691.

Glass. Roman cuisine. Vicolo del Cinque 58 06/5833 5903.

La Rosetta. Superb seafood. Via della Rosetta 8 06/6821 5116.

L’Infernetto Enoteca Ristorante. Airy trattoria. Via del Pigneto 31-33 06/703 0404.

Maccheroni. “Hot” restaurant. Piazza delle Coppelle 44 06/6830 7895.

Pizzeria ai Marmi. Terrific thin pizza and fried cod fillets (I know, what a combo). Viale le Trastavere 53 06/580 0919.

Recafe. Good lunch spot offering Neapolitan cuisine. Piazza Augusto Imperatore 06/6813 4730.

Ristorante Taverna Angelica. Atypical. Piazza Amerigo Capponi 6 06/687 4514.

Santopadre. Good apps, pasta. Via Collina 18 06/474 5405.

Trattoria Monti. Delicious homemade pasta. Via di San Vito 13 06/446 6573.

Uno e Bino. Marvelous meal and veers off the traditional path a bit. Via degli Equi 58 06/446 0702.

Shopping:

Well, this isn’t really shopping but is just as important. Noi, a beauty salon, has American owners who speak English. Piazza del Popolo 3 06/3600 6284.

Staying:

Chiaja Hotel de Charme. www.hotelchiaia.it 081/415 555.

Palazzo Alabardieri. www.palazzoalabardieri.it 081/415 278.

Eating:

First and foremost, PIZZA:

Da Micheli. www.damicheli.net Via C. Sersale 1/3 081/553 9204.

Di Matteo. Via dei Tribunale 94 081/455 262.

L’Europeo. Via Campodisola, 4/6/8 081/552 1323.

Ristorante Mattozi. Piazza Carita, 2 081/552 4322.

Then, there’s other food:

Ciro a Mergellina. Fresh fish. www.ciroamergellina.it Via Mergellina, 21 081/681 780.

Hosteria Toledo. Traditional. Vico Giardinetto, 78 081/421 257.

Lucilio. Seafood. Via Lucilio, 11 081/764 6882.

Osteria da Tonino. Simple. Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 47 081/421 533.

Osteria degli Antiche Sapori. Via Santa Lucia, 18 081/245 1183.

Ristorante da Dora. Fish. Via Ferdinando Palasciano, 30 081/680 519.

Rosiello. Elegant. Via S Strato, 10 081/769 1288.

Plus, to finish:

Gelateria Otranto. Via Scarlatti, 78.